Friday, 20 January 2017

Tower Bridge Experience

Tower Bridge
Thursday January 19  2017

For some reason (probably TFL) we thought the entrance to this ‘experience’/museum was on the South side of Tower Bridge but the start is actually at the base of the North Tower. Though very cold it was in fact a beautiful day so the camera had been working away capturing the full tourist experience from alongside the ‘Belfast’ (of which more later).

Tower Bridge is one of several maintained by the City of London aka the Corporation and hence is well emblazoned with the city’s crest and decorated with its limited palate – red and white.   It does cost but there are .reasonable reductions for the usual concessions

There is a clear trail to follow and a lift takes you to the top floor, which is a spacious lobby to the walkways. By way of introduction there is a collage of early film clips of ‘heavy traffic’ in London – because horse drawn vehicles take up so much space and are less disciplined than more modern vehicles the traffic shots round London’s pinch points – the Strand, Hyde Park Corner and the bridges – look every bit as busy as today. London needed a new bridge to relieve the strain elsewhere and also one that allowed tall ships as far up the Thames as possible. This was the brief and several proposals were made. The first filmed ‘lift’ was in 1903.

After this brief introductory film, the screen surrounded by some random Victorian artefacts to give you the period feel (the smell of old wood, iron and oil is enough to make you realise this is not a new structure), you are encouraged to set off along the East walkway, where between the multiple metal struts there are extensive views down the river, and as this is the ‘last bridge’ for the time being, the view is clear – the river also widens considerably from this point.
The walkways are the exhibition space – to the right are WORLD BRIDGES, so a collection of large colour photos of the world’s iconic bridges, old and new, and their vital statistics.  We had fun spotting those we had visited and I am sure it is an added attraction for their many foreign visitors. To the left are small illustrated fact boards about the planning & structure and material of the bridge and its context – trade and commerce round the pool and docks of London.

As we said two weeks ago in the Maths Gallery, architects would be nowhere without their structural engineers and both are fully honoured here. Interestingly the engineer was J Wolfe Barry, son of the Charles Barry who designed the Houses of Parliament. We imagined the twin tower design was chosen to honour the Tower of London on the neighbouring bank. The bridge joins the south London borough of Southwark and the north east Tower Hamlets. The City’s architect was Sir Horace Jones who in fact died before completion and there were five contractors involved. The towers are actually steel structures, clad in bricks and then Portland Stone, and the upper walkways are in part to brace the lower sections though also supposed to offer pedestrians an alternative crossing when the bridge was open – however this option never proved very popular and they were closed in 1910. Once the walkways were in place construction could start on the bascules which arrived in 12 metre sections.

One of the information boards that caught our attention was the use of Thameside as ‘beaches’. The King was very keen that London’s poor children should be offered a beach experience and this tradition continued until someone realised that the swimming was dangerous because of poor water quality!

The views from up here ate stupendous and well worth the admission price alone, but of course the selling point is the glass walkways.  A small section of the walkway is heavy duty glass and therefore you can look straight down on the river or passing traffic – it is a vertiginous feeling and though we coped it was quite a relief to have the solid floor again. According to one of the very pleasant staff, who are all well informed about the exhibits, a previous school party had done hand stands and back flips along the glass walkway.

Reaching the other end there is the equivalent lobby and film screen, this time with a computer simulation of the construction process. The tour then takes you back along    the west facing walkway, where the Bridge and Information boards continue. The view this way takes in the next three bridges or so and much of London’s famous skyline – old and new plus excellent views of the Tower and the Pool of London. Jo had been working on the ‘Belfast’ when the ship was towed away to be refitted, and she remembered how the five little tugs had manoeuvred her under the walkway with the radar mast only just fitting beneath – it was a very slow operation. Somewhat to our surprise the bridge opens 3 times a day on average as even as Londoners it’s quite rare to catch it!

Still enjoying the views we completed the walkway, a bit more blasé about the glass floor second time around; you are then turned back to the south tower from where you are encouraged to walk down the impressive metal stairways. A recent addition to enliven your descent is various relief plastic plaques reminding you of London’s riverside buildings – we were somewhat surprised to see ‘City Hall’ the Mayor’s HQ referred to as the Armadillo ?

Back down at street level the trail leads into the engine rooms complete with that warm slightly oily metallic smell.  As far as we understood it the bascules – the two opening halves of the bridge worked through a counter-balance – still work on hydraulic (water) power but presumably electrically driven whereas back in the day you were looking at steam power. This is the same kind of machinery and doubtless gives the same kind of joy to its enthusiasts as steam trains. The boilers are bigger (very handsome black cast iron) and were heated by coal brought along the river and tipped from a chain of handy trugs. When the water is hot enough it turns to steam which powers the pistons – there is even a complicated (when I say complicated it means I don’t really understand it) system of power storage as of course the bridge is opened on demand and is not in constant use as the pistons driving a train engine would be.
The machinery has been beautifully preserved and presented and the information boards are multi-lingual and easy to follow.  There are even small scale models at the end which you can operate.

The exit is of course via the gift shop which offered a range of models of the bridge to build, though interestingly not the Lego one. The museum attraction is understandably popular with tourists as the views and walk are worth the price alone, but there is enough easily digested information to detain a visitor who wants a little more history and context. 

Friday, 13 January 2017

The Museum of Methodism

49 City Road
London EC1Y 1AU

Thursday 12 January 2017

If we are honest, Linda and I were not expecting much from this visit, but we were wrong: we had a fascinating  and informative time, and saw some remarkable buildings and objects.

The first pleasant surprise is to step off the horrible City Road into the calm courtyard of this headquarters of the Methodist movement.  We started in the Museum, with a brief film about the life and work of John Wesley, which is supported by a wall time line. The key points of Wesley's life are outlined, beginning with his birth in Lincolnshire (one of 19 children) in 1703, and his miraculous rescue from the fire which destroyed the Epworth Rectory, convincing his mother (and later himself) that he was a 'brand plucked from the burning' (Zechariah 3 i-ii) and chosen to serve God.  His father's patron, the Duke of Buckingham, ensured that he was educated, first at the London Charterhouse and then at Oxford, and he was ordained into the Church of England. 'Methodist' was the derisory nickname given to him and his friends of the 'Holy Club' by their fellow students, but they were happy to live their lives in a methodical way and did not object. 

The key moment in his life was probably his evangelical conversion in 1738 when, as he said, 'I felt my heart strangely warmed' and became convinced emotionally as well as intellectually of the truth of his faith. The very next year, he bought the derelict cannon foundry on the City Road, and set up a chapel, school, and dispensary and his own home: effectively a community centre. Not that he spent much time there: over the next 50 years, he travelled about 250,000 miles, preaching to the poor. 

At this stage, we were offered a tour of Wesley's House, which can only be visited in the company of one of the knowledgeable people who staff the Museum, so off we went. It is a handsome house, built with money from Methodist congregations in the 1770s. Wesley was based here from 1779 to his death in 1791. We started in the basement, where there was very little light, but our guide's torch showed us some relics of the man himself and his innumerable journeys on horseback. His shoes (small feet, but then he was not very tall) his spurs, his travelling writing desk and some of his clothes are all on display in the house. So is his rattle from when he was a baby. We were also amazed by an 'exercise horse' on which one sits and bounces up and down.  The travelling season went from March to September, so keeping the muscles in trim over the winter was important.

 On the ground floor were two rooms with opportunities for entertaining his many visitors, and some fine furniture, including a lovely corner cupboard.  Upstairs again was his study, with a fine view of the Dissenters' cemetery opposite, where his mother Susannah is buried.

His ideas on medicine were often strange, and we saw his machine for using static electricity for dealing with anything from fevers to rheumatism and hair loss.  He believed that tea was an evil drink, despite the fact that the great Josiah Wedgwood had made him a personalised and magnificent teapot, which is on display in the Museum.

We also saw an extraordinary cockfighting chair (close up of a similar one here) given him by a convert and useful as a work chair for someone who spent so much time on horseback.  The handsome 1690s grandfather clock was rumoured to have come from Epworth, but it seems unlikely that such a clock would have survived the fire of 1710.

Next to his bedroom is his prayer-room.  This is known as 'the power house of Methodism'. He rose at 5.00 every morning and spent time with his bible. He called himself a 'one book man' but was in fact very widely read.  His successor as head of the Methodists destroyed a number of his secular books, including his Shakespeare, which is a pity, as he wrote comments in the books he was reading, and his take on some of Shakespeare would be interesting.  Upstairs again there was a spare room, for visiting preachers, or for his brother Charles.  It is a small room, but the bed will fold up into the wall to make more space.

After the house, we visited the original Foundery Chapel, with a neat little organ, and a few wooden pews, before going into the main, magnificent chapel. The pulpit, which is original, began life with three storeys, to enable the preacher to he heard in the galleries, but it now has a mere two! The altar rails were a gift from Margaret Thatcher, who was married here.  Her children were baptised in the font.

Then it was back to the Museum. where we saw a wide range of items about the life of Wesley and the history of his movement to the present day.  A bible, said to have survived the fire at Epworth, and certainly showing signs of having been singed, has pride of place, together with the pulpit from the original chapel.  We were not very excited by the many portraits of the heroes of Methodism, but we did enjoy commemorative ceramics and prints, as well as the display of modern reprints of some of Wesley's many publications, including his works on Abolition. The Museum also has some fine vinyl recordings of Methodist hymns.  Actually, whether one has any religion or none, most people are familiar with Hark the Herald, and Love Divine, so we all know something of Methodism.

There was a range of trowels from the laying of foundation stones, too.

We also enjoyed the displays of collecting boxes, ancient and modern. Wesley was unashamed about 'begging' for the needs of the poor, and to this day, the Methodist Movement funds charities for children and old people, at home and abroad. 
Ever since Wesley declared 'the world is my parish', this has been a worldwide movement.  The split form Anglicanism only occurred when Wesley ordained ministers to go abroad though he was not himself a bishop. So the museum has a section about the Caribbean, where Methodism arrived in the 1770s and is strong today, and around the world. There are almost two million Methodists in South Korea, for example.

Finally, we ventured into the historic gentlemen's toilets, among the first public flush loos in London, and were suitably impressed. (There are everyday toilets as well...)

Before we left, we ventured into the rain soaked garden to see the memorial to the founder and also to note the modern office block, the rent of which helps to support the whole complex

Monday, 9 January 2017

Science Museum (Part 2)

Science Museum
Exhibition Road
London SW7 2DD

Thursday January 4th 2017

This was our second outing to the three storey Science Museum, and we chose to visit the newly opened Mathematics Gallery, with time left over for one of the other general sections – or so we thought – not realising how absorbing this presentation was. I am sure most of the exhibits have been in the Museum’s collection for years but are newly showcased and captioned to make them both understandable and relevant to everyday life. Having said that I found myself with several photos of things I can’t remember so this may turn into a ‘Guess the Object’ quiz. I am not clear why the Gallery is also named the Winton Gallery as the money was donated by other names and the setting designed by Zaha Hadid where at least she was spared from having to provide a roof. The curvy shape  – her trademark – is to suggest the airflow round a plane in motion and means you can meander up one side and down the other. There is also a film of the equations ‘flowing’ round the wings and body on a screen suspended under the real plane, which they obviously wanted hung as a prime exhibit even though in many ways it is much less interesting than other less beautiful objects.

 The Gallery aims to demonstrate that counting/ calculation/ documentation/ statistics and maths are part of our daily lives and have been since man walked upright.

Counting is represented by a range of objects from the simple abacus through to several early models of comptometers (not a misprint). Industry, commerce and of course government all need to count – mainly money as it goes in and out. At its simplest level you count with beads, then small at first hand cranked machines , which calculate small sums leading to the first ‘pocket calculator’ in 1973. These were slightly larger than today’s mobile phone, which of course has the same functions tucked away as a very minor ‘app’. There is a substantial (made to last?) cash register – this looked tempting (I would have quite liked the opportunity to push down a few ‘keys’ and hear the  satisfying chink as the drawer opened) – you needed to be good at mental arithmetic as the operator not the machine worked out what change was needed.
Governments need (slightly) more sophisticated calculators to look at how money flows through the economy – we were rather taken with Bill Phillip's model, where a simple ‘dam’ system showed the beads ‘flowing’ either into savings or spending. 
The one here runs on ‘beads’ rather than water as presumably it was felt to be less risky.

A surprisingly   large chunk of the Maths display is given over to gambling (I suppose it is a big Industry, and it is certainly part of the High Street) as of course the point of much gambling is looking at ‘odds’. Apart from dealing with bookmakers there are also intricate Tote machines that calculate how much winnings, if any, you are owed. Betting on a horse or dog ‘with form’ or even on a Book Prize winner is one thing but many folk just bet on random numbers coming up – hence the display of dice and Guinevere , who was one of the early National Lottery number selectors.

If some of life’s natural mathematicians drift into the betting industry others surely head for Insurance, which of course also runs (very profitably) on risk, most of which has been calculated in advance. Nowadays in medical/life insurance very little is left to chance as endless questions and tests are examined before insurance is available. In order to arrive at a point where insurance is offered in any particular case there will have been statistics analysed to calculate the risks.

Scientists have been collecting medical statistics for longer than you might think. We hovered in front of a leather bound volume entitled ’ Degrees of Mortality’ by one Edmond Halley debating whether it was the same man who tracked the comet, and indeed it is. I for one find medical statistics rather more fascinating that occasional comet appearances but most websites stop short of giving him all round credit for his other scientific observations.

Another name we had met in a different context (and museum) was that of Florence Nightingale who introduced very novel ways of presenting the statistics of death amongst the sick and wounded of the Crimea using pioneering diagrams to demonstrate that far more men were dying of sickness rather than wounds or war. This to me seemed a far more significant achievement – the ability to demonstrate significant statistical facts in a pictorial manner – than walking the wards with a lamp!! The fact she went on to harangue those in power to get things improved completes the picture.

Nightingale and Halley were of course not the first people to describe medical conditions and doctors must always have guessed that certain things cause illness or death but it needs a good statistical presentation to convert a hypothesis into accepted facts. ‘Measuring People’ in Victorian times invested a lot of energy into Phrenology – the study of skull shapes was thought to predict personality and potential, but when looked at statistically this ‘science’ proved to be unreliable, to say the least. Tests of course were also produced to look at people’s intelligence, which have long been mired in controversy, and more recently tests tried to establish emotional intelligence and stability.

Turning away from mankind we have long tried to measure both the earth and the universe. We have yet to visit the Observatory at Greenwich but here there is a succinct if complex explanation of how early man managed to navigate – yes, using the sun, moon stars and some complex tables but the margins for error seem so enormous (cloudy skies, rocking ship disturbs your astrolabe, let alone human error) that it is amazing that any ship ever managed to arrive anywhere safely. If you add in the additional factor of tides which are seemingly random but do follow a pattern there is even more calculation to be done.      Recognising patterns as man did so long ago, is apparently the first sign of a complex machine’s ability.  Whilst on navigation there is a section on ship hulls and what shapes might do better. All those centuries of work on hull efficacy must have paid off when it came to aircraft design and as noted earlier the screen shows airflow (and the equations required to work it out) round a plane fuselage.

Getting back to earth, maths was needed to work out weights and measures and there are good displays of the evolution of ‘standard weights’ which of course we take for granted. Early scales and weights are one thing but the display which shows how standard measurements varied throughout the UK and the world (how do you do ‘fair trade’ without generally accepted measurements?) are astounding. Elizabeth I managed to standardize weights for England but it took till 1825 till Imperial (non metric) weights and measures were enshrined in law not just for trading purposes.    I think beer must have been regulated earlier or there would have been riots every night in drinking joints? Once of course you have legally set measurements you need an inspection process to maintain and enforce it.       

Just as fundamental to our daily lives as what we buy in the shops are the principles of architecture and engineering which underpin (literally) the whole built environment. My friend who was an engineer always said that architects would be nowhere without the engineers to calculate the stresses put on structures by both their foundations their heights and the materials used. We in the UK do not have to factor in making a building earthquake proof as some do. When you take into account all the variables and calculations needed it sometimes seems a miracle that anything above a metre stays upright! Let alone the added complexity of bridge building.  There is a brief nod to Vitruvius and the fact that symmetry and perspective are also required in order to make the finished edifice aesthetically pleasing – the example used here is the erstwhile Nat West Tower now Tower 42 which may or may not fulfil that part of the brief?

Today most calculations are done by a machine pretty quickly, but this exhibition really underlines and demonstrates that there were some really clever people who worked it all out in their heads and on paper log ago. We also take so much for granted and without maths we could not go about our daily lives of travel, commerce, health and leisure without the pioneers who made it possible

Some mystery exhibits.....